Nylon Sheath
Beading and jewelery making is a great hobby, which can become a great business if you are so inclined. But before you make your name as a major new fashion accessories designer, you have to get to know your basics, and beading threads are both basic and complex. There are a myriad of brand names out there, and it can get very confusing if you are not sure what they are or how you use them. We'll attempt to shed a little light on the subject.
Nylon wire
Nylon wire is a single strand of nylon plastic in a specific diameter. It is strong and cheap but a little inflexible and doesn't knot so well, as kinks form easily at the knots. Nylon wire comes in a wide range of colours and gauges or thicknesses, and the colourless variety is great for using as an invisible thread when you want the beads to be the main feature and to appear to float on the body. Brand names include Fireline and Nymo. Not to be confused with nylon thread, which is the multi strand twisted thread you might see in beading and sewing applications.
Elastic thread
Elastic thread is also made of nylon, but is stretchy and much more flexible. Its ideal for making bracelets and other jewelery without clasps, but make sure you finish any knots with a dab of superglue or they will eventually come undone. Again, this is available in a wide range of colours and diameters. Brands include Stretch Magic.
Tigertail
Tigertail is several strands of thin steel twisted into a cable then covered with a thin nylon sheath which can be any colour. The number of strands in the core varies from 3-7 or more, and generally the more strands the better the wire. It also comes in a range of diameters. Tigertail is the strongest option and under normal usage will never break, but it is a bit inflexible and kinks when knotting. Its great for heavier beads, and as the tigertail is not unattractive it can be used in applications where the stringing material is visible. Brands include Beadalon.
Terylene threadÂ
Terylene thread is my personal favourite, its a synthetic thread so won't rot, very flexible and has great movement for necklaces, its pretty to look at so doesn't detract from your designs, but it will eventually fray with wear, so you will need to re-string every few years. It comes in a wide range of colours, knots well, and best of all, its cheap! I've not seen anyone else selling this, so can't tell you about any brands.
Natural threads
Cotton or silk, these have great flexibility and are traditionally used in bead stringing, especially the stringing of pearls.They do rot with wear and age, and particularly with damp and chemicals like perfume. Traditional techniques involved the jeweller knotting between each bead so that if and when the thread breaks only 1 or 2 beads or pearls were lost, but this makes it expensive to use when making jewellery.
Thong or cord
Thicker than standard stringing materials, thong was mostly used to hang pendants or make decorative knots, such as those in our Chinese knotwork kit. It is used more in bead stringing since pandora beads became popular. Thong can be made of waxed cotton (waxed to waterproof it and make it less susceptible to rot), leather, silk or satin (rattail) and is most commonly found in 1mm and 2mm diameters, although it can be sourced in up to 5mm diameter.
Metal Wire
Metal wire comes in a range of colours, finishes, platings, and so on. You can work with base metals or precious metals, depending on your budget and project suitability. One mistake many beginners make is to use metal wire to string their beads, as a necklace cord for example. Metal wire is not suitable for any project where the wire will move and flex, as movement will cause metal fatigue, which means that the wire will break. Wire should only be used for rigid projects such as tiaras, ot to make rigid components in flexible work, such as jump rings and headpins.
Memory wire
Memory wire is made of a springy steel alloy, usually plated or galvanised in a silver or gold finish. It is used to form choker necklaces and coiled bracelets and rings. It is called memory wire because it retains its shape and is very hard to form into any other shape. To neaten the ends up when you've finished your project, glue a half drilled bead on each end using epoxy resin glue.
Magpie Jewelery is a great website with a huge range of beads findings and jewelery. We import all our stock direct from the manufacturers to get you the best prices. Magpie Jewelery is a great resource site for jewelery designers, beaders, hobbyists and beginners, with free beading patterns, great beading articles and loads of great products.
Visit us now at http://www.magpiejewellery.net
Home Made Nylon Sheath
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Sheath Inc
When it comes to surviving a jungle, to breaking out of a tangled hell, there isn’t anything, anywhere that can compare to the magnificent machete. You won’t find another tool or device that can work as fast and as efficiently. So, how do you know what to look for when it’s time to get one?
Well, when it’s time to choose a machete, there are certain features that it should never have. Really. It shouldn’t be lightweight. It shouldn’t be bright and shiny. Please, no. Machetes that possess such qualities usually can’t hold a very sharp edge. This makes them very inefficient. The machetes themselves won’t last very long, either. That very thin blade could just break in two on your first hard job. A shattered blade flying uncontrollably through the air is entirely possible. Believe it.
The best kinds of machete are those that are made of high carbon steel blades with spring temper. This sturdy composition allows for some flexibility of the blades with very little fear of snapping them in two. They can be identified immediately by the black oxide finish of the blade. If not, there is usually some other black anti-rust baked-on finish. The best handles are high impact shatterproof polymer handles that are usually black in color. Steel compression rivets are optimum for holding the handles in place.
As with a sharp knife, a sharpened machete—and even when its not—should always have a sheath on. Just falling on an unsheathed machete, knocking your swinging arm into it or even accidentally kicking it on the ground could really result in a terrible injury. Don’t even question the need for it. If you haven’t got a sheath, leave it at home.
Here are a couple of “don’ts” for choosing a sheath. Cloth-like vinyl sheaths are easily found but they aren’t recommended. The blade should have a much stronger form of protection. There are some wooden sheaths available but they aren’t very practical, especially in the field. They could split or break and you’d be left carrying an unsheathed machete.
While some machetes come with very nice leather sheaths, this type of sheath isn’t recommended for a working machete. Especially not when you’re going to store it. It is suggested that they only be used for show. Leather absorbs moisture and facilitates the production of tannic acid. This will then accelerate the formation of rust. Such a problem can, and should be avoided. You really don’t want to go there.
The best machete sheaths are made of a very tough, very thick flexible plastic that completely covers the blade from tip to handle. Military surplus stores are the best places to find them, although they are available at many other stores. They aren’t as common as leather sheaths but they are so much more functional. My personal favorite is the one that comes with a metal swivel belt hook and a built-in sharpener. The classic military machete sheath. Very nice.
Some new machete models have features that are quite impressive. These features improve the functionality of the machete. Some have a prominent saw-toothed edge at the spine of the blade, sometimes called a saw back. Minus the tip, it sometimes covers almost the entire length of the spine. It’s awesome. This is a machete with a fully functional saw. Really nice, especially for rubbery or extremely hard wood. There’s no need for repetitive chopping.
Another improved feature is the addition of long grooves that run lengthwise along the flat of the blade. These grooves allow for better removal from sappy wood or vegetation of similar texture. Lanyard holes are not a requirement of machete handles but they sure are nice to have. It helps for temporary storage on the quick.
There are many styles and types of machetes available in today’s market. You could get a Bowie machete, a bolo machete, a two handed or a double edged machete, to name just a few. These machetes range in price from just over five dollars to nearly a hundred dollars (sheath and sharpening stone included). Even the best machetes can be found at less than thirty dollars. Just be sure it has the best features possible and lacks the features that will only weaken it.
A good quality machete is an extremely valuable tool in the right circumstance. It is extremely versatile and efficient. Any person who often finds him or herself out in the field is highly recommended to have at least one in their collection of tools. Nothing compares to the magnificent machete.
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Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world. If you would like to learn about
- Knife Sharpening: How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them
- Tests for Sharpness, Steeling, Stropping and more
- Sharpening Other Blade Edges
(i.e. Chain Saws, Gardening Tools, Axes)
- Maybe you’d like a Free Guide: Sharpening Lawn Mower Blades
Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com
About the Author:
Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Machete: How to Choose the Best Kind
Place Sterile Sheath over ultraStand
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What Is A Good Camping Sheath Knife?
I am looking for a good, relatively inexpensive camping sheath knife. I was looking at a Buck 119 special, but am not sure. I plan to use it for camping, not so much hunting. I already have a good pocket knife, and am not looking for something a little more.
Blades Sheath
Knife Specs.
Blade length: 7 inches
Blade material: 1095 carbon steel
Sheath Material: Nylon
Handle Material: Black Kraton
What I like about the knife
1. At 7 inches long, the epoxy powder coated blade is the perfect length for utility or tactical use. Ka-Bar uses a clip point design, which even makes the USMC knife useful for hunting and skinning.
2. The guard and pommel are made from carbon steel. This means that your fingers have excellent protection from slipping unto the blade. The steel pommel is rugged enough to make a nice hammer or mallet in the field.
3. Ka-Bar decided to use black kraton in the handle of their USMC knife, which has proven itself over the years to give you an awesome grip even in the most horrific conditions.
4. A tough nylon sheath is the perfect companion for such a brutal knife. That's exactly what you get with the USMC. The good thing about this type of sheath is that it won't be affected by rain, snow or other moisture. Dirt and mud should clean up easily from this type of sheath also.
5. Each Ka-Bar USMC has extreme sharpness and toughness because of the 1095 carbon steel. The only downfall to this type of steel is that it can rust if not cared for properly. To protect you from this, Ka-Bar covers the blade with a powder coat that serves as both an anti-rust agent and an anti-reflectant.
What I didn't like:
I like just about everything, but I only wish that Ka-Bar offered the USMC with a fully serrated blade.
Overall:
With a suggested retail value of $92, the Ka-Bar USMC knife is about as tough as it gets. You will be happy to have such a rugged knife when it matters the most.
USMC Knives are selling for $45 or less at http://www.KnifeSell.com
Thanks for reading,
Santiago Gutierrez
RFK Khukuri and camping sheath.wmv
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Knife Sheath
Do you go for the biggest, the smallest, the prettiest, the most odd-looking... the options available seem endless!
Steel Dive Knife or Titanium Dive Knife?
This is more a question of costs - a titanium dive knife typically costs twice the price of the same dive knife in steel. The reason is that titanium does not rust - steel definitely does! Titanium is also lighter and stronger than steel, although this isn't too important for a dive knife.
Unless you only need your dive knife for a short time - a holiday say - you should go for the titanium dive knife option, it is a worthwhile investment and you won't regret it, especially when the rest of the scuba divers on your dive boat have rusty dive knives!
A Good Sheath
Without a good sheath your dive knife could fall out in your first dive - it really is the most important factor; you can buy the most expensive dive knife in the world but if it slips out of its sheath you've lost it!
Good things to look for are whether it clips in flush (good) or you have to jiggle it about a bit to get it in (bad). You should also make sure you can put it back in either way round because you may not be able to see too well when diving.
What edges does it have?
A good dive knife will have:
1) A standard smooth blade
2) A serrated blade - allowing you to cut through things without applying much downward pressure
3) A net cutter
If these aren't enough for you, for example if you regularly have to cut stronger materials with your dive knife, then some trauma shears may appropriate.
Dive Knife Attachments
Some knives come only with straps, others with everything you can imagine. If you only intend to strap it onto your leg, then don't get a dive knife with hose attachments! If you are unsure, then go for a dive knife with many options; the T-Rex knife (from Lumb Brothers) is a particularly good option.
When deciding where to put your dive knife decide whether you can reach the dive knife - strapping your knife onto your leg is notorious for being difficult to reach. Another common place is on your arm - note that if one arm gets snagged you'd better hope its not the one you need!
The best place to put a dive knife in my experience is on your BCD.
Conclusion
Go for a titanium dive knife unless you only want it for a month or two, and get one that suits your needs - in many cases a no frills titanium BCD dive knife is perfect!
How to Choose a Dive Knife was written by Dave Huscroft, contributer to One Stop Dive - a website dedicated to providing all the information you need when choosing scuba diving equipment
bushcraft, birch bark knife sheath
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