Knife Speed
Making an Easter Bunny Cake
For many years, chocolate has had the poor reputation of being "bad for you." But researchers have now discovered that chocolate contains as many if not more antioxidants than tea.
To make this double-chocolate Easter bunny cake (chocolate cake and chocolate frosting), use your round layer-cake pan.
In addition to the cake and frosting, you will need:
* jelly beans
* coconut
* malted milk eggs (the large ones that come in a variety of colors)
* 2 wafer cookies (for the ears)
Cake
* 1 1/2 cups flour
* 1 cup sugar
* 1 teaspoon baking powder
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* 1/3 cup cocoa
* 3/4 cup milk
* 1/2 cup cooking oil
* 1 egg
* 1 teaspoon vanilla
Measure all ingredients into a medium-sized bowl. Use an electric mixer and blend at low speed for 1 minute. Scrape the bowl while blending. Beat at high speed for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping the bowl occasionally. Bake at 350 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes in a greased and floured round layer-cake pan. Allow the cake to cool thoroughly before removing it from the pan.
Frosting
* 3 cups powdered sugar
* 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon cocoa
* 6 tablespoons butter, softened (or margarine, if you prefer)
* 1/4 cup milk
Measure all ingredients into a medium-sized mixing bowl. Blend at low speed for 1 minute. Scrape the bowl while blending. Beat at high speed for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping occasionally. If frosting seems too stiff, add milk by the teaspoon until the frosting reaches the desired consistency. If the frosting seems too thin, add powdered sugar by the tablespoon until the frosting reaches the desired consistency.
How to Make Your Chocolate Easter Bunny Cake
Remove the cake from the round cake pan. Cut in half. Frost the flat side of one half and put the two pieces together. Place on a platter or a large plate, cut side down.
Frost the cake with chocolate frosting.
Place two jelly beans for the eyes and one jelly bean for the nose. Use a large malted milk egg for the tail.
With a sharp knife, cut a hole on each side of the head where you want to place the ears. To make the ears, use the sharp knife to trim a wafer cookie into the shape of bunny ears. Frost the ears. Put a little frosting into the holes to anchor the ears.
Sprinkle coconut around the Easter bunny cake. Decorate with jelly beans and malted milk eggs.
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LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of books about growing up on a small family dairy farm 40 years ago. The Midwest Book Review calls this series of books “Highly recommended reading!” You are invited to sign up for the twice-monthly newsletter from Rural Route 2 -- http://ruralroute2.com
Mae With a knife - Speed drawing -
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Blade Combat
Im looking for any information I can find on a Nichols WW2 combat knife?
I managed to find out what it was called, but beyond that I haven't been able to find any background info about it at all.
The scabbard is marked Alfred Cornish, Omaha Neb.
The hilt is one piece of cast brass with a large pommel and a ribbed gripping area. The crossguard is streight with upcurled tips. The blade is 7 5/8" curved, AND double edged.
The scabbard and the crossguard are both stamped with the name of the soldier and his id number, (as was the other example I saw on the net). The soldier in question was in the Army and fought in the Pacific, specifically in the Phillipene islands. Any information or links about The Nichols Combat knife or links would be greatly appreciated. I'm particularly curious about how many were made, and whether they were issue or personal items.
I don't know if this knife was a limited-issue item or if it was purchased by the individual or if it was presented to him as he went off to war by, say, The local merchants association.
this might help, although i am unfarmillair with that knife
http://www.militaryfightingknives.com/collection.html
Mount & Blade Combat 2
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Handle Pocket
Pocket Hole Joinery consists of drilling a hole at an angle into one piece of wood, and then joining it to a second piece with a self-tapping screw. The technique of pocket hole joinery began in Egyptian times. "Egyptians clamped two workpieces together and bored a hole at an angle from the outside workpiece into the second workpiece. They then inserted a dowel with glue, and cut it off flush with the outermost surface." - Wikipedia
A simple concept, pocket hole joinery allows the user to utilize the same technology that is used in high production cabinet shops.
An advantage of pocket hole joinery over other types of joinery is that you only have to deal with one half the joint. With biscuits and dowels, you are dealing with both sides of the joint. There is also no time wasted waiting for the glue to dry, just screw and go. The result is a nice flat face which reduces sanding time and a good, solid joint that is ready to be used.
The Kreg System of pocket hole joinery uses a special 2-step drill bit. First, it drills a pilot hole in the end and second, it creates a flat bottom hole. Round bottom holes can cause the wood to split when you screw into them. Therefore, the flat bottom hole, combined with the self tapping screw creates a mini clamp on the joint making it extremely strong. From the Kreg website: "A independent lab completed testing a few years back that showed that a pocket hole joint failed at 707 pounds when subjected to a shear load while a mortise and tenon joint failed at 453 pounds (approximately 35% stronger). Pocket hole joints are tremendously strong for a couple of reasons. 1. The use of a mechanical fastener (screw) is significantly stronger than the material around it (wood), and 2. The amount of direct clamping force placed on the joint by driving the screw combined with today's glue technology makes for a sensationally strong bond."
The screws create an enormous amount of clamping power. Be sure that your boards are planed and your cuts are square because the pocket holes will pull joints off to the degree that you've cut the angles inaccurately. A packet of these screws come with the Kreg System and can also be purchased separately in varying quantities. As Dean Bielanowski states in his online review, "The screws supplied are square drive meaning no hassles with burring or stripping the heads when over-tightening, unlike Philips head and other generic-type screws. They also feature a 'washer head' to ensure a solid and even clamping force when driven. In fact, Kreg states on their website that in testing, the strength of the pocket hole joint with metal screws against other traditional forms of joinery (including mortise and tenon joints) was significantly greater. This ensures piece of mind when using pocket holes for joints that will encounter pressure or weight." Bonus: they cost no more than regular screws.
A valuable accessory to the Kreg System is the Right Angle Clamp. This handy tool helps easily hold together right angle joints, for instance in chairs and cabinets. The peg of the clamp goes right into the pocket-hole screw, holding your wood pieces together at 90 degrees. This makes is easy to then set the pieces by screwing into the other pocket holes. Kreg also makes plugs in various species of wood so that you can cover the holes that are made in decorative pieces such as shelving.
Kreg is better.
Kreg's pocket hole joinery system is better than the others. Why? Because of the flat bottom hole that the Kreg Joiner creates. Porter Cable's system creates a very nice looking but round bottom hole. Round bottom holes prevent the washer heads from fully seating which can cause the wood to split when you screw it tight. Also, Kreg's system works on demand. By that I mean that it doesn't stay running if you are not using it. The switch is in the handle that you pull down slightly to clamp, then you pull down more to activate the drill. It consists of one drill, not a separate router and drill bit like the Porter Cable System. And for pretty much the same price you get a very simple, very easy, very nice strong joint.
Eleven Uses for Pocket-hole Joints:
1. Right Angles
2. Beveled edges
3. Aprons
4. Leg rails
5. Picture Frames
6. Window Jambs
7. Trim carpentry
8. Built-ins
9. Decks
10. Cabinet frames
11. Stairways: Use pocket screws and lots of wood glue to keep them from squeaking between the bottom sides of treads and the riser. Almost all squeaks come from where wood is rubbing against nails.
Jude Herr is the editor for Toologics.com, a Tool Blog which provides information, news and reviews about power tools for the professional tool user and craftsperson. Visit http://www.toolking.com where they leverage their buying power to offer you the best prices on professional power tools and accessories.
Tempestuous Jones @ Handle Bar "Brass In Pocket"
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Serrated Knife
How do I remove a serrated knife from a wound without doing more damage? ?
I'd rather not go to the hospital because the explanation is rather humiliating. I'm not bleeding too bad but the blade from the pocket knife is completely embedded.
HOW THE HELL ARE YOU ASKING/TYPING THIS QUESTION WITH A SERRATED KNIFE IN YOU
You can remove it safely, how I'm not going to tell you BECAUSE you have to get your wound sutured and stitched. That and you might have possible nerve, artery or damage to something that if you were to pull it out you'd screw yourself over farther. Go to the hospital. NOW.
How to Sharpen Tools : Sharpening a Serrated Knife
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Knife Boot
4 pairs of kids old wellies. Unless you are best friends with Snowhite and the seven dwarfs, I suggest that you look for wellies at your local car boot. You can pick up kids old wellingtons for around 20p to 75p. Don't be afraid to haggle. Try to pick wellies that don't have a raised image on the side, as this will show up on Rudolf later. I used wellies sized 10, 10, 7 and 3 (UK child sizes) Get what you can but try to get wellies of a similar size.
You will also need...
Thick card (the side of a grocery box is ideal) gold spray paint, string, newspaper, 2 glass stones, a red Christmas bauble, and Evo-Stick timebond adhesive or another glue which will stick rubber.
Firstly, give the wellies a good wash. Glue and paint wont stick properly with dirt in the way.
Arrange Rudolf’s legs.
Use the smallest pair of wellingtons for the forelegs. Stand the boots side by side and make two small holes in both boots on the inside leg part. The holes in the boots need to line up. Apply some glue to stick the boots together and thread some string through the holes to tie the boots together for extra support. Keep the threading and ting of string invisible by doing it on the inside of the boots. It is a bit of a fiddle, but is important.
Use a pair of sized 10 boots for the hind legs. Put the heels together and the toes apart, just wide enough to nestle the forelegs in between. Make holes ready for tying the boots together as you did before and glue the hind legs together at the heel and to the forelegs wherever they touch. Tie the boots securely with string invisibly on the inside.
Leave the welly structure to dry for 24 hours before continuing.
To make Rudolf’s back and tuffty tail, take a sized 10 boot and cut it down the back seam in a straight line. If you use a knife for this part, be very careful not to cut yourself. Cut a triangle wedge from the heel of the boot. This is to remove the stiff rubber that shapes the heel because it is too stiff to work with.
Stick Rudolf's back onto his legs.
Open the split that you cut at the back of the boot and slot over the tops of the legs with the toe of the back boot pointing upwards. Bring the top edge of the back boot round to the front legs. Make small holes in these corner flaps and in the front wellies at the tops and stick the back boot into place and thread string into the holes that you made and tie securely. These knots will be on the outside of the structure but will be covered later.
The neck and lower head.
With the other sized 10 boot, cut the back seam of the boot again but this time only cut down to the top of the heal shaping. Turn the boot upside down and open the back split, slot the boot over the top of the front legs, with the shaping of the heel resting on Rudolf's back. Glue into place and anchor with parcel tape to hold the position until the glue dries. You may find that it helps to leave Rudolf to dry for 24 hours on his size. Remove the tape once the glue is dry.
Rudolf's head.
With a sized 7 welly cut down the front and back seams of the welly to the top of the heel and foot shaping. Cut ear shapes from the two flaps that you have just created.
Cut out two simple but chunky antlers from thick card. Do not put bends in the cardboard structure as you cut the antlers out. Make the antlers wider at the bottom, this help support the antlers later.
Push the antlers into the 'head' boot so that the base of the antler touches the sole of the boot. Scrunch up a sheet of newspaper and push it between the antlers to separate them and to wedge them in.
Make tow small cuts to form an 'X' in the toe of the boot and cut the flaps of the X away for make a circle ready to add the nose later.
Stick the top of Rudolf's head to the rest of the structure and leave to dry.
Spray paint the reindeer gold. Read the back of the paint tin and follow the manufacture’s advice of how to use the spray paint. Give the reindeer a coupe of coats of paint and be sure to cover all the nooks and crannies.
When the paint is completely dry, pull the end off the Christmas bauble and stick it into place with the bauble stork pushed through the hole in Rudolf’s nose. Finally, stick two glass stones in place for Rudolf’s eyes.
Rudolf can be scaled up to make a garden decoration by using adult wellingtons. Put a brick or stones inside each of Rudolf’s feet to prevent him from falling over or blowing away in the wind.
Because the dimensions of adult’s boots are different to children’s boots, a large Rudolf's back legs can be positioned in a similar fashion to the front legs.
Paint and use a small ball for the nose. Half and paint a Ping-Pong ball for his eyes and fashion antlers from Wire coat hangers and bind with tinsel.
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Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - How to Make a Wellington Boot Rudolf
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